Q:Dear Garden Mavens,
I have recently purchased a light meter but am trying in vain to find a source that will identify the foot candle requirements of different plants. Do you know of a good source for this information?
Tracy
A:Dear Tracy,
Your question is an interesting one. After a bit of searching, Garden Maven Peg was able to locate the following websites. Each has information that you may find useful. Garden Maven Colleen believes complete information can be located in college level horticulture textbooks, so you may want to do a search for one of those. In the mean time, check out these sites:
Clemson Factsheets Good chart at bottom of page.
UMN Extension General info.
Plant Answers Breif list - use the Clemson guide to convert levels to foot candles.
Madsci Contains a chart with light levels to foot candles conversion.
Ehow Easy to understand information.
Garden Maven Colleen also writes: Nowadays many professional growing guides and
textbooks may not have footcandles because the footcandle is becoming
obscelete in favor of electrons per second aka Lux as a more universal
measure.
Measure the light in different areas
of your home and yard and make a list of the plants that are growing
under different footcandle amounts. You can then get an idea of
how many foot candles qualify as "shade", "part shade" "part sun" and
"sun".
Happy Gardening!
The Garden Mavens
Q:Dear Garden Mavens,
I sowed some string beans and now the little saplings have grown . Is it a good time to put them in the ground outside now--Mid March? I live in Wilmington ,Delaware and the temps are around late 40's to 50's and min bet 25 to 35.
Or should they remain in their little pots indoors for longer? They are growing real fast.
Thanks,
Vinita
A:Dear Vinita,
Hi Vinita,
Your little bean plants need to remain inside until the weather warms up. If the outdoor temperature falls near or below freezing, your beans will be killed by the cold.
Beans are plants that like to be planted directly in the garden. They don't take long to grow and produce beans, so direct sowing is not a problem.
Beans like the soil to be warm. I live in northern Ohio and I wait until June to plant my bean seeds directly in the garden even though the last frost date for my area is May 15.
Wait until all danger of frost is past and the soil has had time to warm up before transplanting your seedlings. According to the USDA zone maps, Wilmington, DE is in zone 7 so your last frost date for spring is April 25. This means you may safely plant your bean seedlings outside after April 25.
If your seedlings are growing quickly, transplant them to larger, individual pots. Be careful not to damage their stems. After April 25, I recommend "hardening off" the plants. This is done by allowing the plants to remain outdoors during the day for a few hours and increasing the time outdoors each day until they have been outdoors all day and overnight for several nights while still remaining in their pots. Then transplant into your garden.
Because beans grow quickly, they are best grown by directly sowing the seeds in the garden. Your beans may have been started too early to effectively grow and produce a harvest, but keep working with them and see what happens.
Happy Gardening
The Garden Mavens
Hi Vinita,
I am the other Garden Maven at Growing Pleasures. I wanted to
add that you may be able to contact your County Extension office to
get a planting guide for your area. They may have a sheet that has
the appropriate planting dates for all of the different plants you
would grow in your garden. The University of Delaware has an
extension page about fruits and vegetables here at UofD Fruits and Vegetables
Good luck with your beans!
Garden Maven Colleen
Q: Dear Garden Mavens,
I grew yellow wax beans for the first time this year. I'd like to have seeds left to plant next season. What do I do? I have left a few beans (a big handful) on the plants outdoors. Do I bring them in to let them dry or do I leave them outside to dry on the plants which are still in the ground?
Sincerely,
Jeff
A: Dear Jeff,
Congratulations on your wax bean crop. I love to grown wax and green beans. They are easy to grow and usually provide an abundant harvest.
There are a few things to consider before harvesting seeds from bean plants and from most other plants, as well.
1) Are the seeds you planted a true variety or a hybrid variety? If they are a hybrid, seeds from the plants you grew will not produce the same variety next year.
2) Did any other plants from the same family (other beans) grow in the near vicinity of your bean plants? Although beans are self-pollinated, cross-pollination can occur. If you or your neighbor grew black beans or green beans, your plants may have been cross-pollinated with those plants, thus producing a new hybrid seed. These seeds will not produce the same plant that you grew this year.
3) How attached are you to this particular type of wax bean? Bean seeds are generally not too expensive. Your best bet may be to purchase new seeds next year.
4) Are you sure the existing crop of plants is disease and pest free? You really want to avoid saving anything but perfect seeds.
Now, if that hasn’t scared you away from the process, you can harvest for seed. It can be very interesting and rewarding.
There are different methods for saving seeds, depending upon how the seed grows; whether it is considered a wet or dry plant in seed saving terms. Beans are considered a dry seed.
You didn’t say where you live, but you do want to get those seeds off the plants before the first frost occurs. It is best to leave the pods on the plants for as long as possible. The seeds will have optimum conditions to mature, but don’t let them freeze.
If you need to avoid the frost, pull up the plants, roots and all and hang them upside down in a cool, dark, dry place. When the seeds are ready for storage, the pods (or beans) will be dry and may even start to split open. Gently open the pods and remove the seeds. The seeds should be dry. If they need a bit more time to dry thoroughly, spread them out in a single layer on some paper and let air dry in a cool, dark, dry place. (I am drying some flower seeds on my dining room table.) Store them in a marked envelope in a sealed container in the refrigerator (see the project archives for a great seed storage box). It is important to keep the seeds dry, cool and in humidity controlled space. Do not freeze. The seeds will die.
Next spring, after the soil has warmed up, plant the seeds and see what happens. If they don’t grow, you can always purchase more seeds. If they do grow, it will be fun to see what type of beans is produced.
For more information about saving other types of seeds, go to Seed Save.com.
Q: HI,
My single red maple plant/tree is now about 6 inches high and it's
been out in our porch, potted for 5 months now.... should I put it
indoors during wintertime or can it survive the cold and snow
outside? It looks pretty healthy unlike the other one that died in
the pot.... Please advise.
Thanks!
Leizl
A: Dear Leizl,
Thanks for your question. Isn't gardening great!? You get to nurture all sorts of plants from babies to mature adults.
Well, you didn't say where you live, but if I were you, I'd plant that little seedling into the ground as soon as possible. Red Maples need the change of seasons to thrive - even the cold of the winter.
If you are unsure of the final growing spot for your little sapling, just dig a hole and sink the pot with the little tree into the ground. Back fill around the pot making sure the soil in the pot is at the same
level as the soil on the ground. In other words, don't plant the tree to deep or too shallow.
Once it is in the ground, give it a good long drink of water. Since it is so small, it may not survive the winter, but I think planting it now gives it the best shot for a long and healthy life.
Q: Growing Pleasures,
We have a Red Maple sapling, 2 yrs old, growing in our flower garden. The tree is approximately 3' tall (photo attached). Should we cut off the lowest leaves in order to allow the tree to grow better? We've never had a tree grow from seed and would like this to one day be transplanted into our yard. This started from a Red Maple in our yard. That tree is 20' tall.
Also, when should we move the tree into the yard? I did notice roots coming from at least 3 places, in the dirt, and don't want to wait too long to move it for fear that we'll cut the roots when we dig it up.
Thank you,
Gina
A: Dear Gina,
Congratulations on your new arrival. I love garden volunteers! Thanks for sending a photo of your little tree. It really helps. (Sorry we couldn't include the photo here.)
The Red Maple is a terrific tree. It is a round or oval shaped tree and very fast growing. An 8-10 foot tree will usually grow to 20 feet tall with and equal spread in 5-7 years. A fully mature red maple will be 50-70 feet tall. It produces red buds in the spring and its leaves turn a beautiful shade of red in the fall.
Select a site for your new addition where it will receive plenty of sun and have room to grow. Red Maples have shallow roots so it is best to plant them away from driveways, patios, etc. Also, keep in mind, your volunteer will grow into a very large shade tree. If you place it correctly, it will shade your home very nicely and may even help reduce cooling bills in the summer. The south-east or south-west corner of your home is a good shade location, but make sure this tree is a safe distant away from the home – at least 10-15 feet, more to be completely safe.
Ordinarily, it is recommended that tree transplanting be done in the spring or fall. Fall is a good time as the soil is warm and easier to dig. There are several steps that can prepare a tree for transplanting (cutting trenches around the roots to encourage root growth) but given the location of your little sapling, you MUST move it as soon as possible. It will not thrive in its current location and, worse, its roots may begin to cause damage to the foundation of your home.
The goal in moving the tree is to preserve as many roots as possible. Carefully dig around the tree, well away from the trunk. Since your little tree is up against a foundation, start by using a flat shovel against the foundation directly behind the tree. Loosen the soil to see how far the roots have spread. Dig outside the area of visible root spread and gently lift the tree. Try to keep the soil in a ball around the roots. Also, try to avoid breaking any of the roots.
Dig a hole in the new location twice as wide and deep as the root ball of the tree. Fill the hole part way with compost, either your own or store bought. Place two stakes in the ground at the outer edges of the hole directly across from one another. Tie a string to each stake, across the hole. Place the tree in the hole and using the string as a guide, put soil under the tree, if needed, so the tree will be in the ground at the same level as it was in its original place. You can then rotate the tree to make sure it is standing straight. Back fill the hole with the remaining soil being careful not to mound the soil around the trunk. You can make a mounded ring about 12-18” from the trunk so that water will run towards the tree and main roots, if desired. Red Maples do not need any special fertilizers or soil amendments. They tolerate most soils as long as the ground is given a good soak during dry spells.
Water the tree well. Keep it moist but not soggy.
Your little tree is so small right now that you really don’t need to worry about pruning it for several more years. Don’t cut the top of the tree or remove any lower leaves. Just let it grow and branch out naturally. When it is about 6-8 feet tall, you can then think about pruning it.
Many trees do not survive the shock of transplanting, so don’t be too disappointed if this is the case with your little maple.
Please keep us posted on the progress of your little volunteer!
Q: Dear Garden Mavens,
Hi! I'm a new member and novice gardener with my first vegetable garden! My tomato plants are huge but are developing yellow leaves at the bottom. Any idea what this might be?
I also have zucchini and one of the plants has lots of white lines throughtout the leaves. It appears to be healthy otherwise but looks very strange!
Thanks for your help.
Leslie
A:Dear Leslie,
So glad to have you as a member of Growing Pleasures A Garden Club!
It may be your zucchini problem is the start of powdery mildew. I get it in my garden every year. It is easy to control and should be controlled or it will destroy your plants. Just mix 2-3 Tablespoons of baking soda in one gallon of water and spray this all over your plants and garden soil. Make sure you spray the undersides of the leaves, too. Spray everything, not just the zucchini. This solution is totally organic and will help control a multitude of garden problems. Repeat the application every 7-10 days or more frequently if you get rain right after an application. Some varieties of zucchini have white lines naturally. Spraying with the baking soda solution will not eliminate them. However, spraying will not hurt the plants in any way. Try adding a nice layer of mulch around your plants to prevent water from splashing on the leaves. Mildews and other fungi are spread this way. If this doesn’t help and your plants begin to struggle, please let us know.
Your tomatoes may be perfectly healthy. The leaves on the bottom may be turning yellow because the upper massive top section of the plant shades them. Inspect your plants for mites and aphids. If the leaves look dirty or feel sticky, then the plants might be infested. Sometimes, you can see the critters on the undersides of the leaves. They usually go for the center bottom part of the plant first. If present, just spray them with a hard stream of water to knock them off. You can also use an insecticidal soap, available at good garden centers. This will help keep them away. Repeat the water spray as needed. Repeat the insecticidal soap spray per the package directions. The yellowing could also be the start of early blight, the result of a nutrient deficiency, overfeeding, over-watering, or some other malady. If you have a photo, please send it so we can determine what the problem and solution might be.
We hope you will be knee deep in zucchini and tomatoes by the end of the growing season. It sounds like you are off to a great start!
Q: Dear Garden Mavens,
I've been trying to grow a wisteria on a purgola in my backyard on Long Island for many, many years. I selected wisteria because I wanted something easy to grow that would quickly cover the purgola and have interest; blooms, seed pods, etc. Everyone told me wisteria will grow like wild and will need to be heavily pruned every year to keep it under control. I've been struggling with the same couple of plants for five or six years. They continue to look as if they just came out of the nursery pot. They haven't grown at all. They seem stunted. They haven't been chewed on and it doesn't appear there is any fungus or disease. What do you recommend?
Noreen in Souht Hampton
A:Dear Noreen,
Without seeing the vines, I would suggest you remove them and get the soil tested. It sounds like there is something in the soil that is stunting the vines' growth. Soil testing may tell you what is wrong and how to remedy it. Is it possible that an animal visiting your yard uses the area as its own personal outhouse? Animal urine can dwarf the growth of plants if the animal frequents the same area on a regular basis.
In the mean time, remove the vines and dig a very large hole for each vine. Dig the holes at least 18" deep and about 3 times wider than the vines' root balls. Get rid of the dirt from the holes. Don't compost it or use it anywhere else. Dispose of it. Fill the holes with a combination of peat moss and compost. Depending on the ph level of your soil, you may want to add some lime to sweeten the soil. Also, you can add some all-purpose fertilizer. Mix the new soil well. Hose off the roots of the vines to remove all the old dirt. Inspect the roots for insect damage. If the vines appear to be healthy, replant them in the newly filled spots. If not, purchase new vines and plant. Keep the vines moist until they appear to be well established. Mulch around them to help conserve moisture. The vines should be happy with the new soil mix.
